The 'M32' is the restaurant of the 'Museum der Moderne' in Salzburg, and its position is wonderful, as it dominates the old town and faces the old imposing Schloss. Anna and I were staying as usual at the Goldener Hirsch, our favourite hotel in Salzburg, and we had decided to get at 'M32' only for an aperitif; but when the very kind maitre found me the right Martini stem glass for my favourite cocktail (they usually serve it in a tumbler, apparently, so I was ready to leave at once....) I thought that this was one hell of a good spot to stay and savour the twilight over on of Mitteleuropa's magical towns. I was right.

The Martini was good though the gin was quite normal (stock Tanqueray), olives and chips were acceptable and the ambience excellent, especially when they moved us for dinner in a front-row table. There you understand why Europe, even outside of Italy, is really the best place in the world to savour the little pleasures of life....